samedi 26 octobre 2013

Amchur: Mango with an Extra Pinch of Health – Filled with Good-for-You Phytochemicals

India’s world-famous Madras Marina Beach, on Bengal Bay’s northern coastal town of Chennai, is one of the largest and most beautiful beaches in the world. It’s a year-round destination, but in late spring it really starts to teem with vacationers, many of whom head as fast as they can to one of the scores of seaside food stalls to snack on the region’s famous delicacy—sliced and spiced green mango.

Green mango is the same tropical fruit that Americans enjoy for breakfast, sliced over cereal or pancakes, or chopped into a salsa to complement a Caribbean fish dinner, but with one difference. Americans eat mangoes when they’re ripe—orange, juicy, and sweet. In India, they eat mangoes when they’re unripe—green and tart.

Most Americans these days are familiar with mango—it’s found in the produce section of supermarkets and is a common ingredient in fusion cuisine. But unless you’ve traveled to India or Asia, or shopped in an Indian or Asian specialty market, it’s unlikely you’ve experienced mango as a spice. The spice—amchur, am meaning mango and chur meaning powder—is a powder made from unripe, green mango. And like the whole fruit, it’s very good for you, delivering a concentrated dose of mango’s many health-giving nutrients.

Filled with Good-for-You Phytochemicals

As its colorful flesh suggests, mango—like oranges, carrots, sweet potatoes, and other orange-colored foods—is filled with healthful phytochemicals, the nutritional compounds that help prevent many chronic diseases, such as heart disease, cancer, and type 2 diabetes. The standout phytochemical in mango is beta-carotene, a powerful antioxidant. But it’s rich in several others.

When researchers from the University of Florida measured the phytochemical content of eight tropical fruits, mango was the winner. “We think mangoes have some unique antioxidants, as well as quantities of antioxidants that might not be found in other fruits and vegetables,” they commented. And one of the most unique—and most powerful—is lupeol.

Anti-cancer. Studies show that lupeol can block the mutation of DNA, one of the main causes of tumor formation—and it does so as an antioxidant, neutering radical oxygen species (ROS), hyperactive molecules that run amok, triggering mutations.

And in an animal study on prostate cancer, lupeol battled back against prostate damage, leading researchers to conclude that “mango and its constituents . . . deserve study as a potential chemopreventive agent against prostate cancer.”

Prostate health. An animal study also shows the lupeol in mango can reduce an enlarged prostate, a condition called benign prostate hypertrophy (BPH) that strikes four out of five men over 50, with urinary symptoms such as urgency, more frequent urination, a weaker stream, straining, and waking up several times a night to urinate. Lupeol, concluded the researchers, “could become an important alternative to treatment of BPH.”

Balancing blood sugar. Studies from researchers in Brazil show mango can help normalize blood sugar (glucose) levels, with glucose level in animals fed mango flour 66 percent lower than in non-mango animals.

Reversing gum disease. In other animal research, researchers found that mangiferin—another antioxidant from mango—can reduce the inflammation of periodontal (gum) disease and slow the rate of bone loss. “Our results have demonstrated promising therapeutic potential of mangiferin both in the prevention and treatment of periodontitis,” they conclude.

Pollution protection. Researchers in India found that mangiferin protected liver cells against the damaging effects of cadmium, a pollutant.

Strengthening the thyroid. In more research from India, animals given extracts of mango had higher output of several thyroid hormones. Some health experts think that hypothyroidism—low thyroid function—is epidemic in the US, accounting for a wide range of problems, including weight gain and fatigue.

 

Amchur is dried, green mango.

Heart disease. Another team of Indian researchers found that mangiferin helped slow the development of heart disease in animals fed a high-fat diet, reporting their findings in Vascular Pharmacology. And a team of Cuban researchers studied a proprietary mangiferin extract called Vimang and concluded that it had “potential” in the treatment of heart disease.

The Indian Mango—Cream of the Crop

There are at least a hundred different varieties of mango, with varying sizes, colors, textures, and tastes. If you thought that a mango you ate today had a different flavor than the mango you ate last week, it’s probably not your imagination—especially if one mango came from India and the other didn’t.

The mangoes of India are different than the mangoes grown anywhere else in the world: larger, less fibrous—and much sweeter. Among mango connoisseurs, the flavor of the Indian mango is considered to be unsurpassed. (And among Indian mangoes, the Alphonso is considered the best brand.)

Late spring marks the beginning of mango season in India, when the branches of the big, burly trees start to sag from the weight of fist-sized fruit. People buy them by the dozens to eat green, sprinkled with cumin, salt, and sometimes soy sauce. Mangoes are enjoyed just as much in the summertime when they’re ripe, but it’s the tart taste of the green mango that is truly prized.

Amchur may help prevent and/or treat:

Benign prostatic

hypertrophy (BPH)

Cancer

Diabetes, type 2

Gum disease

(periodontal disease)

Heart disease

Thyroid problems

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Amchur pairs well with these spices:

Ajowan

Almond

Black cumin seed

Black pepper

Chile

Coriander

Cumin

Garlic

Ginger

Fenugreek seed

Mint

Star anise

Tamarind

and complements recipes featuring:

Chickpeas

Chutneys

Curries

Marinades

Meats

Seafood

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Other recipes containing amchur:

Chaat Masala

Los Banos Low-Fat Brownies

Like avocados, mangoes only ripen properly off the tree. In fact, mangoes left too long on the tree are inedible, as worms invade the ripening flesh. It’s because they are picked still green that they are ideal for exporting—a big benefit for people in the United States, Europe, and other temperate areas where mangoes don’t grow.

Mangoes grow not only in India, but also in Africa, Southeast Asia, the Caribbean, Latin America, and the Pacific Islands, including Hawaii. But the fruit originated in India, and India is by far the world’s largest grower. During the late 17th century, emperors of India’s Mogul dynasty ordered the planting of 100,000 mango trees to make sure there would be an unlimited supply of the fruit. To this day, Indians know how to put all those mangoes to tasty use. And one such use is amchur.

Getting to Know Amchur

Amchur is little-known outside of India, but it’s a staple in Indian homes. It’s made by drying green mango slices in the sun and then pulverizing the dried fruit into a powder. It has a tart and tangy taste, similar to powdered lime. And, traditionally, it’s used in much the same way Americans use lime (and lemon): as a souring agent. In India, it helps sour chutneys (this is why the mango chutney you can buy bottled in Indian and Asian markets is green, something that often puzzles people unfamiliar with the Indian penchant for the unripe mango). It also sours relishes and pickles (green mango pickles are often highly spiced and extremely hot). And it sours curries, especially vegetable curries. Amchur is also a key ingredient in the spice blend chaat masala, a sour condiment used to complement curry dishes.

Most notably to aficionados of Indian cuisine, amchur is used to tenderize the meat and chicken cooked in famed Indian tandoori ovens. It’s one of the ingredients credited for making tandoori dishes succulent and juicy. (It also lowers the pH level of a sauce, keeping it fresher longer.)

Garbanzo Beans with Mushrooms and Toasted Almonds

Chana means beans in India. This dish is adapted from a popular dish often sold by food vendors in South India. Serve it over basmati rice for a main vegetarian entree. The sambaar masalaadds extra heat.

3 tablespoons canola oil

3 cups sliced mushrooms

½ cup sliced almonds

1 teaspoon black cumin seeds

2 cups chopped onions

10 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon amchur

1 tablespoon ground fenugreek

1 teaspoon sambaar masalaor 1 tablespoon garam masala

1 teaspoon ground cumin

3 dried red chiles, seeds removed and diced

1½ cups vegetable stock

2 15.5-ounce cans garbanzo beans (chickpeas)

¼ cup cilantro

1. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and fry, stirring constantly, until the mushrooms release their liquid and it evaporates, about three minutes. Add a few tablespoons of vegetable stock if the pan gets too dry. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

2. Wipe out the skillet with a paper towel and add another tablespoon of oil. When the oil gets hot, add the almonds and stir-fry until lightly browned, stirring gently, about three minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

3. Heat the last tablespoon of the oil in a medium-sized Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When hot add the black cumin seeds and sizzle for 30 seconds. Add the onions and fry until golden brown, about five minutes, stirring constantly. Add the garlic and ginger and stir five minutes more, stirring constantly. Add the amchur, fenugreek, sambaar masala, ground cumin, and chiles and cook one minute.

4. Stir in the stock, the garbanzo beans, and the reserved mushrooms. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook for 25 minutes. When serving, sprinkle with the toasted almonds and cilantro.

Makes 6 servings.

AMCHUR IS USED TO TENDERIZE THE MEAT AND CHICKEN COOKED IN INDIAN TANDOORI OVENS.

Amchur is more popular in northern India. Southern Indians prefer tamarind as a souring agent.

How to Buy Amchur

Amchur is sold as a powder or as dried green mango slices. Your best bet is the powder—the dried slices are tough and hard to grind.

When pulverized, green mango turns gray, but the amchur you’ll find in the market is tan, thanks to a touch of golden-hued turmeric, another popular spice from India. So don’t be put off by a gray color; it has nothing to do with freshness or quality. A grayer amchur only means less (or no) turmeric was added.

Amchur can be purchased at Indian markets or via the Internet. It’s sold under the names amchur, amchoor, or green mango powder. It will keep in a cool, dark place in an airtight container for about a year.

In the Kitchen with Amchur

Think of green mango powder as an exotic (and dry) alternative to citrus. It has a tart flavor but is much milder than a lemon. Use it as you would any souring agent, such as in pickles, chutneys, and relishes.

Amchur is excellent in dry spice blends when you need something tart to add balance. Here are a few other ideas for cooking with the spice:

• Use it in marinades with or instead of citrus juice. It works particularly well in marinades for tough cuts of meat.

• For a tangy taste, sprinkle it on steamed vegetables, as you would lemon.

• Sprinkle a little in melted butter served with steamed shrimp or lobster.

• Sprinkle it on meat and vegetable kebobs before grilling.

• Add it to your favorite fruit chutney recipes.

• Sprinkle it in marinated cucumber and onion salads.

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