mercredi 13 novembre 2013

Spice Mixes and Rubs from Around the World: Easy Combos to Create Delicious Healing Dishes

Spice mixes are the best way to enjoy the healing spices—and get the most out of their health and healing potential. There is no better way to develop diverse flavor, intense aroma, and the perception of freshness than by grinding or roasting a batch of spices expertly balanced to accent the taste of food and satisfy the appetite.

The cuisines of the nations renowned for spicy foods get their outstanding and unique taste characteristics as a result of combining complementary spices (usually a minimum of four, but often many more) into a flavor unlike any individual spice or food. The world’s most famous spice mixes come from India, Southeast Asia, North Africa, Latin America, and the Caribbean, where they have been savored for thousands of years. Spicing is ubiquitous to those parts of the world, and a mix is commonly found on the table, just as Americans always have salt and pepper shakers at hand.

Spice mixtures can be mild or hot, bland or sharp, dry or mixed with wet ingredients to form a paste. They can consist of ground spices or whole spices. Some are pre-roasted, while others are ground and premixed as a convenience to be at the ready when it’s time to cook. They can be used as part of a dish, as a condiment to sprinkle on food, or as a marinade to tenderize meat or poultry. They are used to accent flavor, but more often they are used to develop an intensely unique (and delightful) taste.

Generally speaking, no one spice dominates in a well-made spice blend. Spice mixes are balanced to harmonize flavors. (Those with an acute sense of smell may be able to detect the nuances of individual spices.) Even mixes that turn up the fire with additional chile can deliver that hot sensation without the distinct taste of chile. Jamaican jerk, for example, doesn’t taste like chile—but it’s spicy hot!

Spice blends also save preparation time. Aromatic dishes such as those that come from the spice nations often call for spices that require roasting and grinding. This can be an arduous task—but only if you do it each time you cook. That’s not necessary! Cooks who know their spices make up batches of different spice mixes that store well for months. Such advance planning can turn a recipe with a laundry list of ingredients into a meal you can make in minutes.

There are hundreds of traditional spice mixes, and they can be found all over the world (even in some regions of the United States). However, aside from a few exceptions, you’d be hard pressed to find the exact same recipe for any of these classics from one cookbook to the next, as every chef tends toward personal innovation. But there are specific spices in each mix that make them classic, and this doesn’t change. The spices that complement them, and the amount of spice, can be adjusted to suit individual tastes.

The mixes in this post are inspired from my well-worn collection of Indian recipes, and from the recipe collections of my co-author, who is trained in French cuisine. We also used creative license, developing these mixes for simplicity, availability of ingredients, and (most importantly) to maximize the use of healing spices. They are also designed to complement a wide range of foods and cooking styles. Feel free to improvise—if there is a spice you don’t particularly like, use a substitute. You’ll find a table of spice substitutes. Or refer to the “Great Groupings” chart. Just as long as you stay true to the essential spices in a mix, you should capture the classic flavor.

A Tip on Toasting and Storing

Spice mixes are a convenience for advance preparation, but don’t make a blend that you plan to store for a while before its first use. The different components of a blend can have different limitations in freshness, with some turning stale before others, upsetting the balance of the blend. A spice mix is best used within a month (although most last from three to six months, or longer). If you’re experimenting, or know you won’t be using the blend too frequently, consider cutting the recipe in half. Store these mixes in small, airtight glass containers, kept in a cool, dark place. Be sure to recap them right after use.

Some of the blends call for using whole spices that must be dry roasted and ground. This is easy to do and each recipe instruction indicates how to do it. But it’s best to refer to The Healing Spice Cabinetfor more information on the nuances of roasting, grinding, and storing spices.

Many of these blends are also commercially available. You can find them in Indian or Asian markets and via the Internet. However, commercial blends can contain salt, monosodium glutamate (MSG), or other ingredients not found in the traditional blend. When you make your own, you know exactly what you’re getting.

And because the blends in this post emphasize the healing spices, you’re guaranteed to get an extra helping of health with every shake of the canister.

Enjoy—or as they say in India, Bahut bhokh laggi he!

Masala: Indian Spice

Masala means spice mix in India—and the masala is the essence of Indian cooking, with many types and combinations used in a variety of dishes, and with each region renowned for its own blend.

Indian cooks are famous for improvising, adding their own “secret” spice or spices to a classic masala blend and thereby personalizing their recipe repertoire. The range of possible spice combinations is almost endless. But no matter the combination, virtually all combinations of masala include spices with health and healing benefits.

Garam Masala        Heat: Mild
Also called Moghul garam masala, this blend is India’s most popular spice mix. It is used in just about everything, in much the same way as Americans use salt and pepper. It is generally used as a final flavoring toward the end of cooking, or sprinkled on top of cooked food just before serving. It is popular for adding a finishing touch to curries. Because the spices are sweet rather than bitter, the mix does not require cooking to mellow the flavor. It can also be sprinkled in stews and soups just before serving, and over rice and vegetables. The spices responsible for the primary flavors are cumin, coriander, black pepper, and brown cardamom. Garam masala originated in the north, birthplace of Moghul cuisine, the haute cuisine of India. Use it as they do in India—in anything you desire.

4 tablespoons coriander seeds

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

1 tablespoon caraway seeds

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

2 teaspoons brown cardamom seeds

1 three-inch cinnamon stick

1 whole nutmeg

1 teaspoon whole cloves

1. In a small, dry heavy skillet, over medium heat, separately pan roast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, caraway seeds, peppercorns, and cardamom until they become lightly browned and slightly fragrant. Turn the seeds frequently as they cook so they don’t burn. Set aside on a plate to cool.

2. Break the cinnamon stick into small pieces. Put the cinnamon and nutmeg in a spice grinder or mini food processor and process. Add the roasted seeds and the cloves and process the mixture to a fine powder. The mix will keep in an airtight glass container for up to six months or longer. Makes about ½ cup.

Sambaar Masala        Heat: Hot
This mix, popular in South India, is a contrast from the mild masala indigenous to the north.

The distinct taste, however, comes from dried legumes, called dals in India. The masala is primarily used in vegetable and lentil dishes, soups, and curries. This makes a small amount, as only a pinch needs to be used. Adjust the chile to turn the heat up or down.

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

½ cinnamon stick, broken in pieces

1 teaspoon turmeric

½ teaspoon ground asafoetida

6 dried red chiles, stemmed and seeded

1½ tablespoon urad dal (split white lentils)

1 tablespoon chana dal (split yellow peas)

1. In a small, dry heavy skillet, over medium heat, roast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, mustard seeds, black peppercorns, and fenugreek seeds, until the seeds darken and become slightly fragrant. Stir frequently so they don’t burn.

2. Lower the heat and add the cinnamon, turmeric, and asafoetida and continue to cook, stirring constantly for one minute. Remove to a glass dish and cool.

3. To the same skillet, add the chiles and roast, stirring frequently until brown, about two to three minutes. Remove to a separate plate and cool.

4. Add the split lentils and peas to the skillet and roast, stirring frequently, for three to four minutes, so they don’t burn. Transfer to a plate and let cool.

5. Put all the ingredients in a spice grinder or mini food processor and process until the mixture becomes a fine powder. The mix will keep in an airtight glass container for up to six months or longer. Makes about  cup.

Chaat Masala        Heat: Hot
This mix gets its unique flavor from two exotic spices: amchur, the sharp, lemony seasoning that comes from unripe mangoes; and black salt, a pungent condiment popular in India that gives the blend its saltiness. It is frequently used to flavor Indian snacks (many Indians are enthusiastic snackers) and appetizers called chaats, but can be used in soups, stews, or anything that calls for a sharp, hot, and tart flavor.

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1 teaspoon ajowan seeds

1 teaspoon aniseed

½ teaspoon dried mint

2 tablespoons black salt

1 tablespoon amchur

1 teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon cayenne

Pinch asafoetida

1. In a small, dry heavy skillet over medium heat, separately roast the cumin seeds, peppercorns, coriander seeds, ajowan seeds, and aniseed until they become lightly browned and slightly fragrant. Turn the seeds frequently as they cook, so they don’t burn.

2. Put the seeds and the mint into a spice grinder or mini food processor and process to a fine powder. Mix the powder with the black salt, amchur, ginger, cayenne, and asafoetida. The mix will keep in an airtight container for two months. Makes about ½ cup.

Panch Phoron        Heat: Mild
Panch (meaning five) and phora (meaning seeds) is a combination of five different aromatic seeds. The key ingredient is black cumin seeds, called kalonji in India. The blend, which comes from Bengal, is used whole, and added to cooking oil at the start of a dish. It is traditionally used in Indian lentil dishes and to flavor vegetables and potatoes, but it can be used to flavor almost any kind of dish. When using, ready a sauté pan with oil as you would for browning or sautéing vegetables. Add about ¼ teaspoon of the mix to the oil, moving the seeds around until they release their fragrance. Add the other ingredients right away.

2 tablespoons mustard seeds

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

2 tablespoons black cumin seeds

1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

1. Put all the seeds into a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. Shake well to distribute. The mix will keep in an airtight container for a year. Makes about ½ cup.

North Africa: Land of the Exotic

Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, and Ethiopia are well known for their exotic spice mixes, but Moroccan cuisine is the best known to Western palates, possibly because it is the least spicy among them. Tunisian blends tend to be spicy and hot with chiles. There are many famous North African blends. These are some of the best.

La Kama        Heat: Mild
If you’ve ever visited the northern coastal town of Tangiers you’ve likely sampled this mix. It is Morocco’s most common seasoning and it is used to flavor soups, stews, and the popular slow-cooked dish known as tagine (named after the clay pot in which it is cooked). It is also used as a rub on poultry and lamb. You can make it using ground spices, but do so in small quantity, as it doesn’t have a long shelf life.

1 tablespoon ground ginger

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons turmeric

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1. Combine all the spices. It will keep stored in an airtight container for about a month. Makes about ¼ cup.

Ras-el-hanout        Heat: Mild-to-Medium
This is considered the king of spice blends. Its hallmark is its lengthy list of ingredients—sometimes as many as 30 or more—that merge to form a balanced, full-bodied blend. Ras-el-hanout originated as a spice merchant’s personal blend of the finest ingredients, and often includes the truly exotic, such as rose petals. It is considered the epitome of combining a diverse collection of spices to form a singular ingredient that is better than any one of its parts. Even though it is mild, ras-el-hanout is considered a full-bodied blend that can substitute for the spices used in everyday dishes. Use it in stews, and add it to the sauté pan when making fish, chicken, or stir-fries. Sprinkled on chicken, it gives nice color and flavor to a roast. In Morocco, it is a popular blend for lamb dishes and couscous. Use about half as much ras-el-hanout as you would other spices in a dish. Though the ingredients vary greatly, the blend almost always includes cardamom, cinnamon, coriander, cumin, ginger, paprika, and turmeric.

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

1 teaspoon green cardamom seeds

1 teaspoon brown cardamom seeds (optional)

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

¼ cup mild Hungarian paprika

2 tablespoons ground ginger

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons turmeric

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon ground galangal (Laos powder)

½ teaspoon ground cloves

½ teaspoon ground red chile

1. In a small, dry heavy skillet over medium heat, roast the cumin seeds, green and brown cardamom seeds, fennel seeds, and caraway seeds, until the seeds darken and become slightly fragrant. Stir frequently so they don’t burn. Transfer to a plate to cool.

2. Combine all cooled seeds and the rest of the spices in a small bowl and mix well. The mix will keep in an airtight glass container for four to six months. Makes about 1 cup.

Tabil        Heat: Hot
Tabil means coriander, which is the principal spice in this popular Tunisian blend. It is commonly used in curry dishes, stews, and in stuffings. Or lightly sprinkle it on meat or poultry before grilling.

½ cup coriander seeds

2 tablespoons caraway seeds

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1. Place the coriander and caraway seeds in a spice grinder and grind until smooth. Blend with the chili powder and garlic powder. The mix will keep in an airtight glass container for about six months. Makes about ½ cup.

Berbere        Heat: Hot
This is a complex and wet blend from Ethiopia. As in ras-el-hanout, its ingredients can vary, but they revolve around chiles, cloves, and ginger. This blend is excellent for meat, such as steak, chops, lamb roasts, and pork tenderloin. Mix the rub and smother it on the meat two to eight hours before grilling.

3 tablespoons mild paprika

2 tablespoons hot paprika

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon chili powder

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

½ teaspoon ground fenugreek

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon hot pepper flakes

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

1 medium onion, diced

4 cloves garlic, diced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon sugar

¾ cup olive oil

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

1. Combine the first 11 ingredients in a small bowl and set aside. Put the onions, garlic, ginger, salt, and sugar in a food processor or blender, and process. Add half the spice mixture. With the processor running slowly, add the olive oil, alternating with the rest of the spices and the lemon juice, until the blend reaches the consistency of a paste. Refrigerated, it keeps for about one week. Makes about 1½ cups.

China: Star Spice Master

The cooks of China and the Southeast Asian nations of Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam are considered masters at mixing spices, with an emphasis on designing spicy sauces as seasonings, rather than dry mixes. Hoisin, oyster, plum, and fish sauces are just the beginning of a long roster of enticing sauces that make these cuisines some of the most varied in the world. Though there is a clear distinction in the types of sauces and individual spices that set these cuisines apart, they all depend and make liberal use of China’s famed “five-spice powder,” starring the exotic spice, star anise.

Chinese Five-Spice Powder       Heat: Mild
If you’ve tried to make Chinese food at home but have not been able to quite duplicate the taste, it could be due to the absence of Chinese five-spice powder. It is what gives Chinese barbequed ribs, dipping sauces, and other specialties their distinctive taste. Many Asian recipes call for five-spice powder, but it is often hard to find (and there is no adequate substitute for the flavor). Star anise and Szechuan peppercorns can be found in Asian or Indian markets, and are starting to become regulars on the spice shelves in many supermarkets. (Black peppercorns bear no resemblance to Szechuan peppercorns and are not a good substitute in this recipe.) If you can’t find Szechuan peppercorns, an adequate substitute is equal parts of aniseed and allspice.

3 star anise

2 tablespoons Szechuan peppercorns (or 1 tablespoon
ground aniseed and 1 tablespoon allspice)

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

1 tablespoon whole cloves

1 three-inch cinnamon stick

1. Place all the ingredients in a spice grinder and process to a fine powder. The mix will keep in an airtight container for up to six months. Makes about ¼ cup.

Middle East:
Land of Many Spices

The cuisines of the Middle East have been influenced by Iran, India, and Europe. As a result, spice mixes vary widely within the many nations of the area. Here are two of the most renowned.

Baharat       Heat: Medium
Bahar is Arabic for pepper, the principal ingredient in this popular Middle Eastern spice mix. Also known as advieh, this mix is an interesting combination of sweet and hot that produces a mellow fragrance. This mix is used extensively in the Gulf States for spicing barbecue, meat stuffings, rice dishes, soups, and stews. It is also used in marinades. Try it as a rub for lamb chops. It is popular in tomato-based dishes, as it helps cut the acidity.

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

1 tablespoon cloves

1 teaspoon black cumin seeds

10 cardamom pods, seeded

1 whole nutmeg

1 four-inch cinnamon stick, broken into pieces

½ tablespoon sweet paprika

1. In a small, dry heavy skillet, over medium heat, roast the peppercorns, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, cloves, black cumin seeds, and cardamom seeds separately, until the seeds darken and become slightly fragrant. Stir frequently so they don’t burn. Transfer to a plate to cool.

2. Put the nutmeg and cinnamon in a spice grinder or mini food processor and process until coarse. Add the seeds and grind until finely ground. Add the paprika. The mix will keep in an airtight glass container for about two months. Makes about ½ cup.

Dukkah       Heat: Mild
All nuts have healing qualities, which makes this tasty Egyptian spice mix a very healthy condiment. A great way to enjoy it: sprinkle it into olive oil and serve as a dip for bread. Or put the dukkah in a small shallow dish next to the olive oil; first dip the bread in the olive oil and then the dukkah. You can also use dukkah as a coating for baked chicken and fish, the same way you’d use bread crumbs.

3 tablespoons sesame seeds

3 tablespoons coriander seeds

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

½ cup hazelnuts

1 teaspoon dried mint leaves

½ teaspoon dried thyme

1. In a small, dry heavy skillet, over medium heat, individually roast the sesame seeds, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, black peppercorns, and fennel seeds, until the seeds darken and become slightly fragrant. Stir frequently so they don’t burn. Transfer to a plate to cool.

2. Put hazelnuts, seeds, mint and thyme in a spice grinder or mini food processor and process until mixture reaches a coarse texture. Do not over-process or the mix will turn into a paste. This mix keeps in an airtight glass jar for about 3 months. Makes about 1 cup.

Latin America and the
Caribbean: Where It’s
Hot, Hot, Hot

Say chile—and the countries that probably come to mind are south of the American border. However, not all Latin and Caribbean cuisines are fiery—some are mild, revealing a European influence. But if you like your food hot, you’ll like Latin and Caribbean cuisines.

Jamaican Jerk Marinade       Heat: Fire
In Jamaica, jerk is a dish, a cooking style, and a way of life. A jerk marinade is a fiery hot wet rub, customarily made with Scotch bonnet chiles, one of the hottest chiles on the planet. Allspice is the defining flavor. A true jerk is slow-cooked over a low fire, often an hour or longer, depending on the food. For a jerk with less fire, substitute jalapeño or a milder chile for the Scotch bonnet, and use the smallest amount. Jerk is traditionally made with chicken or pork. This mix doesn’t keep, so you’ll want to make it one recipe at a time.

4 to 8 Scotch bonnet or jalapeño chiles

5 whole scallions, coarsely chopped

1 small onion, peeled and quartered

1 one-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled

4 cloves garlic, peeled

¼ cup white vinegar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon ground allspice

2 teaspoons dried thyme

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

½ teaspoon salt

1. Add the chiles, scallions, onion, ginger, and garlic to a food processor and process until smooth. With the motor running, add the vinegar, soy sauce, and canola oil, and process until well combined, about 30 seconds.

2. Put the contents into a small mixing bowl and add the brown sugar, allspice, thyme, black pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt and stir until well combined.

3. Wash and dry the chicken or pork and place in a plastic bag with a zip-lock seal. Pour the marinade into the bag, seal it as airtight as possible, and roll your hands around the outside to make sure all the pieces are covered. Refrigerate for a minimum of four hours. Remove and grill over low heat, until it reaches desired doneness.

Note: To make jerk truly authentic, you need to grill it over a fire spiked with pimento wood and leaves. Refer to the “Buyer’s Guide” to find out where you can purchase them.

Makes enough for two pork tenderloins or one cut up chicken.

Adobo       Heat: Mild
Adobo is a popular all-purpose dry seasoning with a garlicky flavor. It is indispensable in the kitchens of Cuba, the Dominican Republic, and Puerto Rico, where it replaces regular table salt and is used on everything. To make it fiery hot, as they do in Mexico, add an extra tablespoon or two of ground red chile.

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

2 tablespoons dried oregano

2 tablespoons salt

2 tablespoons garlic powder

½ teaspoon chili powder

1. In a small, dry heavy skillet over medium heat, roast the peppercorns and cumin seeds separately until the seeds darken and become slightly fragrant. Stir frequently so they don’t burn. Transfer to a plate to cool.

2. Put the seeds and oregano in a spice mill and process until it becomes the consistency of a fine powder. Combine with the salt, garlic powder, and chili powder and mix well. The mix will keep in an airtight glass container for six months. Makes about 1 cup.

Colombo Powder       Heat: Medium
Named after the capital of Sri Lanka, this seasoning is popular in the islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique. The nutty flavor comes from the addition of rice. It is popular in dishes featuring fish, plantains, and sweet potatoes.

¼ cup white rice

¼ cup cumin seeds

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 tablespoon black or brown mustard seeds

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds

1 teaspoon whole cloves

¼ cup turmeric

1. Place the rice in a skillet and dry roast it as you would the spices. Separately dry roast the cumin seeds, coriander seeds, mustard seeds, peppercorns, fenugreek seeds, and cloves, and set aside to cool. When cool, combine the rice and other spices in a spice grinder along with the turmeric and grind to the consistency of a fine powder. The mix will keep in an airtight container for up to six months. Makes about 1 cup.

Cocoa Rub       Heat: Medium
Cocoa is popular in Mexico, especially as a spicy beverage and as a spice in savory sauces. Cocoa is bitter in the raw but mellows and melds with other spices when it hits the heat. Rub this into pork or the skin of chicken an hour before grilling or add a tablespoon to bread stuffings.

¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder

¼ cup ground cumin

2 tablespoons paprika

2 tablespoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons chili powder

2 teaspoons coarsely ground black peppercorns

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1. Combine all the ingredients and keep in an airtight container out of heat and light. Makes about 1 cup.

France: A Mellow Fare

The French aren’t big on spice mixes, believing instead that the natural flavor of the principal food should stand out in a dish. (This is why you don’t find French dishes spicy or hot.) There are a few exceptions, however, using herbs and spices to add mellow flavors. These blends originated in the Mediterranean region of southern France.

Quatre Épices       Heat: Mild
Three of the spices in this mix—peppercorns, cloves, and nutmeg—are a constant, but the fourth can be either cinnamon or ground ginger or a combination of both. The peppercorn varies also—either black or white, or a combination of both. I prefer using black because it contains more healthy oils. Use 1 tablespoon of ground ginger in place of the cinnamon. The French use this mix to flavor pates and terrines. It’s also used in stuffings, long-simmering stews, and can be added to a glaze for ham or grilled poultry or pork. It will keep well for up to six months.

cup black peppercorns

1½ tablespoons whole cloves

1 whole nutmeg

1 one-inch cinnamon stick

1. Place all the ingredients in a spice grinder or mini food processor and blend until the spices are the consistency of a fine power. The mix will keep in an airtight container for about 6 months. Makes ½ cup.

Spice de Provence       Heat: Mild
For this mix, we’ve taken a bit of creative license on the French classic Herbs de Provence. The only thing missing is lavender and tarragon. If you’d like to add them, use a teaspoon of each. This blend will taste fresher and is much cheaper than purchasing a commercial blend. Use it as you would garam masala—in anything you desire.

4 tablespoons dried thyme

2 tablespoons dried marjoram

2 tablespoons dried parsley

2 teaspoons celery seeds

3 ground bay leaves

2 teaspoons dried rosemary, crumbled

1. Combine all the ingredients and store in an airtight glass container. The mix will keep in an airtight container for 6 months. Makes about 1 cup.

Bouquet Garni       Heat: Mild
The purpose of a bouquet garni is to infuse a soup or stew with the mellow aroma of fresh or dried spices. The spices can vary, but there is always one constant: bay leaf, almost always crumbled rather than ground. This is why bouquet garni is customarily tied up in a square of cheesecloth, for easy removal at the end of cooking. Use about a tablespoon of the blend for dishes calling for four servings.

4 large bay leaves, crushed into small pieces

3½ tablespoons dried thyme

2 tablespoons dried marjoram

2 tablespoons dried parsley

1. Combine all the ingredients. The mix will keep in an airtight glass container for about six months. Makes about ½ cup.

Other Classic Blends

Spice is synonymous with apple pie, pizza, and barbecue, so we don’t want to leave them out.

Apple Pie Spice       Heat: Mild
This sweet mix is called for in all forms of pies and pastries. It is a common commercial blend, but making your own guarantees freshness and is less expensive.

1 cinnamon stick, broken into pieces

1 tablespoon whole cloves

1 tablespoon whole allspice

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 tablespoon cardamom seeds

1 whole nutmeg

1. In a small, dry heavy skillet over medium heat, roast the cinnamon stick, cloves, allspice, coriander, and cardamom seeds until the seeds darken and become slightly fragrant. Stir frequently so they don’t burn. Transfer to a plate to cool.

2. Put the nutmeg in a spice grinder and break up with a few quick turns. Add the cooled cinnamon and seeds and process to a fine powder. The mix will keep in an airtight container for six months. Makes about ½ cup.

Pizza Spice Blend       Heat: Mild
You don’t need to stop at pizza when using this blend. Put it in anything Italian—tomato sauces, meatballs, lasagna, or as a flavoring on top of spaghetti. Use it as an all-in-one blend for meatloaf. Use about 1 tablespoon of the mix per pound of meat or quart of sauce.

3 tablespoons dried oregano

2 tablespoons dried thyme

2 tablespoons dried basil

1 tablespoon dried marjoram

2 teaspoons dried rosemary, crushed

1 teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon rubbed sage

1. Combine all the ingredients. The mix will keep in an airtight glass container for up to a year. Makes about ½ cup.

Basic Barbecue Rub       Heat: Mild
The sugar and salt in this rub will tenderize any cut of meat. It helps seal in the juices, so grilled food stays moist. The rub should be sprinkled on (not rubbed into) red meat steaks, chops, or poultry about two hours before grilling. If temperature permits—that is, if the day isn’t too hot and you have air conditioning—let the food soak in the rub at room temperature. If not, refrigerate, taking it out about a half hour before grilling.

1 cup sugar

½ cup mild Hungarian paprika

¼ cup garlic salt

¼ cup celery salt

¼ cup onion salt

3 tablespoons chili powder

3 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon ground white pepper

2 teaspoons ground sage

1 teaspoon ground rosemary

1 teaspoon dry mustard

½ teaspoon ground thyme

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1. Combine all the ingredients in a large glass jar with an airtight lid. The mix will keep for a year. Makes about 3 cups.

Rosemary Barbecue Rub       Heat: Mild
Rosemary is a powerful antioxidant—so powerful, it can help stop the formation of carcinogenic substances that build up on meat, poultry, and fish when they are grilled or fired at a temperature higher than 352°F. Sprinkle the rub on the food, about two hours before grilling.

2 tablespoons dried rosemary

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

2 tablespoons sea salt

2 tablespoons sweet paprika

1. Mix all the ingredients together. The mix will keep in an airtight glass jar for about six months. Makes about ½ cup.

Pickling Spice       Heat: Medium
Anyone into home canning will find that a homemade spice mix will give pickled vegetables an added dimension in taste. It is best to use whole spices, as the spices will add flavor without leaving a powdery residue. The spice can be tied in a square of cheesecloth and removed at the end of cooking, though some cooks prefer to let the spice roam freely, as it will continue to infuse flavor in the vegetables once they are canned. Use 1 tablespoon of pickling spice per pound of vegetables.

¼ cup yellow mustard seeds

3 tablespoons whole allspice

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

2 tablespoons fennel seeds

2 teaspoons whole cloves

1 cinnamon stick, coarsely ground

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1. Combine all the ingredients and store in an airtight glass container. The mix will keep for four to six months. Makes about 1 cup.

Mulling Spice       Heat: Mild
Mulled wine or cider and a seat by the fire—it’s a combination that’s hard to beat on a cold winter’s night.

2 cinnamon sticks, broken into small pieces

6 whole nutmegs, coarsely chopped

cup dried orange peel

cup dried lemon peel

¼ cup whole allspice

¼ cup whole cloves

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped crystallized ginger

1. Combine all the ingredients. When making mulled cider or wine, take about 1 tablespoon per person and wrap in a piece of cheesecloth. Secure the bag tightly. Put in a saucepan with the liquid and bring to a simmer. Let the liquid rest for 10 minutes for the spices. Remove the spice bag and serve. Makes about 1½ cups.

Chesapeake Bay
Seafood Seasoning
       Heat: Medium
Old Bay is a popular spicy seasoning for crab boil in the Chesapeake Bay area. The recipe, developed by a German immigrant by the name of Gustav Brunn about 50 years ago, is supposed to be a deeply guarded secret. But many people have tried to duplicate it, including me. The secret to using this seasoning in a crab or shrimp boil is to use a lot of it. Put ½ cup or more in a pot of a dozen crabs or a pound of shrimp. Sprinkle the shells generously again when you take them out of the water. It makes for messy eating, but people who’ve tried it never seem to mind.

¼ cup Hungarian paprika

2 tablespoons celery salt

1 tablespoon ground cardamom

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon dry mustard

2 teaspoons ground allspice

1 teaspoon celery seed

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground bay leaf

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1. Combine all the ingredients. Store in an airtight container away in a dry, dark place. Will keep for a year or more. Makes about 1 cup.

Great Groupings:
Making Culinary Music

Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme. Just like the notes from an old melody, certain spices make beautiful culinary music together. There are some old classics (such as basil and tomato, or cinnamon and nutmeg), and some new hits (such as lemongrass and wasabi, or ginger and saffron). And there are many popular imports (such as black cumin and sesame seed, or ajowan and turmeric).

If you are looking for suitable companions for your favorite spices, let this chart help you. Combinations are endless, so consider this a starting point. Experiment with different combinations until you find ones that suit your personal taste—and your favorite foods!

• Celery seed & ketchup
• Garlic, ginger & turmeric
• Mint, ginger & pomegranate• Almond & cocoa
• Cinnamon & nutmeg
• Clove, mustard seed & vinegar
• Cumin & mint• Cinnamon, saffron & raisins
• Cinnamon & vanilla
• Cocoa & mint• Ajowan, mint & pomegranate
• Cardamom & kokum
• Coriander, onion & fermented fish paste
• Ginger & kaffir leaf• Clove & coriander
• Cocoa & coconut
• Nutmeg & pomegranate
• Star anise & savory• Ajowan & turmeric
• Black pepper, chili powder & fennel seed• Cumin, oregano & cilantro
• Curry leaf, garlic & Asian fish sauce
• Garlic, oregano & capers
• Oregano, olive oil & pine nuts
• Scallions & peanuts• Basil, oregano & tomato
• Rosemary, garlic & thyme• Cinnamon & fenugreek
• Poppy seed & sesame• Cardamom & coconut milk
• Cinnamon, cloves & star anise• Juniper berry & paprika
• Nutmeg & marjoram• Amchur & kokum
• Cinnamon, clove & cumin
• Clove & nutmeg
• Coriander & cumin• Ginger & soy sauce
• Horseradish & tomato
• Sage & turmeric• Cilantro, peppercorns & rum
• Garlic & ginger
• Garlic, lemongrass & shallots• Allspice, clove & nutmeg
• Black cumin seed & fenugreek seed
• Black pepper & hot mustard
• Clove & cardamom
• Clove, star anise & rice vinegar• Cardamom, cumin & cinnamon
• Cardamom & nutmeg
• Cinnamon, nutmeg & star anise• Allspice & red chile
• Almond, mint & vanilla
• Amchur, coriander & orange zest• Asafoetida, cumin & ginger
• Cinnamon, cocoa & vanilla
• Curry leaf, galangal & lemongrass• Cardamon & cumin
• Chile, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, galangal & kaffir leaf
• Lemongrass, shallots, turmeric & peanuts• Basil, oregano & cilantro
• Cardamom, cinnamon & clove
• Cardamom & coriander
• Cinnamon & saffron
• Garlic & ginger
• Ginger, sesame seed & cilantro• Fenugreek seed & turmeric
• Galangal & lemongrass
• Ginger, lemongrass & kokum
• Mustard seed & buttermilk• Basil & tomato
• Black cumin seed & sun-dried tomato
• Cocoa & vanilla
• Rosemary & kalamata• Black cumin seed & black mustard seed
• Clove & onion
• Curry leaf & turmeric
• Lemongrass, star anise & wasabi• Chile & Asian fish sauce
• Chile, garlic, ginger, lemongrass & kaffir leaf
• Coconut milk, lemongrass & cilantro• Basil & oregano
• Chile, lemongrass & shallots
• Cumin, ginger & tomato paste
• Ginger, saffron & yogurt
• Red chile, oregano & lemon• Capers, oranges & Worcestershire sauce
• Chinese mustard & soy sauce
• Garlic, lemongrass & shallots or scallion
• Garlic, saffron & yogurt
• Saffron & vanilla• Black pepper, ketchup & Worcestershire sauce
• Celery seed, lemon & tomato
• Garlic, scallions & soy sauce• Caraway & paprika
• Onion & oregano
• Sage & apple• Amchur & cardamom
• Ginger, lemongrass & curry leaf• Chile, garlic, ginger, galangal & kaffir leaf
• Chile, garlic & shallots
• Coriander, turmeric & peanuts
• Curry, ginger & kokum
• Curry leaf & galangal
• Fenugreek seed, star anise & wasabi• Basil, oregano & pine nuts
• Caraway & nutmeg
• Garlic, onion & wine• Basil & oregano
• Fennel seed & tomato
• Garlic, cilantro & Asian chili sauce
• Mint, cilantro & chives• Black cumin seed, cardamom & tamarind
• Caraway, clove & horseradish• Allspice & cinnamon
• Caraway & marjoram
• Cardamom & clove
• Garlic, cilantro & orange zest• Ajowan & coriander
• Basil & tomato
• Kokum, ginger & turmeric
• Marjoram, oregano, rosemary, parsley & sage• Basil, cumin & cilantro
• Capers & black olives
• Garlic, red chile & lemon• Capers & lemon zest
• Chives & tomato• Amchur & mustard seed
• Black cumin seed & turmeric
• Chile, cilantro, garlic & onion
• Cocoa & mint• Chile & cocoa
• Coriander & cumin
• Oregano, mint & sun-dried tomato• Ajowan & turmeric
• Black pepper & paprika
• Oregano & sun-dried tomato
• Parsley, sage & thyme• Almond, cinnamon & rosewater
• Cinnamon & cumin
• Coriander, nutmeg & rosewater
• Ginger, garlic & yogurt
• Ginger & vanilla• Garlic & onion
• Ginger & parsley
• Mustard seed & cranberries
• Tomato, mint & pine nuts• Black cumin seed & poppy seed
• Coriander, Asian chili sauce, white wine & honey
• Ginger & vanilla• Black pepper, cinnamon & clove
• Cinnamon & orange zest
• Onion & soy sauce• Black mustard seed & turmeric
• Coconut & ginger
• Red chile & tomatoes• Ginger & saffron
• Sage & onion• Basil, black olives & feta cheese
• Basil, chives, corn & grated cheddar cheese
• Basil & onion
• Basil, oregano & fennel seed
• Garlic, red pepper flakes & olive oil• Coriander, lemongrass, shallots & peanuts
• Curry leaf & fenugreek seed• Almond, ginger & orange
• Aniseed, cinnamon & cocoa
• Ginger & saffron
• Star anise, ginger & sesame seed• Black mustard seed & Dijon mustard
• Lemongrass & star aniseThe Spice Exchange:
Compatible Substitutes

As you’ll realize when you start cooking with the healing spices, combining a variety of different flavors imparts its own unique flavor. This makes spice cooking very forgiving. If you don’t have on hand one of the spices in a recipe, you can skip it or substitute something else. You may get a different flavor—but it will still taste good!

For many of the healing spices, there are substitutes that will deliver the intended flavor, or at least a close imitation. You’ll miss out on the healing qualities of the missing spice, but you’ll still benefit from the nutrients in the substitute.

This list includes all the healing spices that have adequate substitutes. If you don’t find a spice in the list, it doesn’t have a substitute. If you don’t have the spice or can’t find it, just eliminate it from the recipe.

Use equal parts of the substitute, unless otherwise noted.

1 part nutmeg and 2 parts
each clove and cinnamon1 tablespoon lime juice for 1
teaspoon amchurOnion powder or 1
tablespoon diced white
onion3–5 black peppercorns or
juniper berries per leafBlack mustard seeds or
cumin seedsEqual parts ground
cinnamon and cloves½ teaspoon ground
cardamom = 10 pods cup diced celery per 1
teaspoon celery seedAny chile can fill in for
another1 square dark chocolate for 3–4 tablespoons4 or 5 dried curry leaves, or
1 dried bay leafHalf the amount of
powdered galangal or 1
tablespoon fresh diced
ginger per two-inch piece
of galangal1 teaspoon powder for 2
fresh clovesDry ginger, cut by two-
thirdsWasabi, or true wasabi by
half1 teaspoon gin for every 2
berries1 teaspoon tamarind paste
per rindLemon zest (one 2” x 2”
piece) and a few slices of
gingerThyme; basil; or Spice de
Provence cut by halfHalf the amount of ground
allspice or clove1 tablespoon of minced
dried onion per ½ cup of
diced fresh onion½ teaspoon dried sage per
4 leavesRosemary or poultry
seasoningCoarsely ground pumpkin
seeds1½ cups drained canned
tomatoes per ½ cup sun-
dried1 tablespoon of molasses
diluted with 3 tablespoons
of fresh lime juice to
an equal amount of
tamarindAjowan; or half marjoram
and half parsley1 teaspoon ground yellow
mustard and a pinch of
saffron2 teaspoons extract to 1
whole beanChinese hot mustard or
English hot mustard

Aucun commentaire:

Enregistrer un commentaire